Venice is the most improbable city on earth — 118 islands connected by 400 bridges, with no cars and canals as streets. La Serenissima (Most Serene Republic) ruled the Mediterranean for 1,000 years, and the wealth it accumulated built one of the most spectacular cities in history. Visit before the crowds arrive — Venice is at its best at dawn.
St. Mark's Square & the Basilica
Piazza San Marco is the only piazza in Venice (all others are called campo) and one of the world's most beautiful public spaces. The Basilica di San Marco, with its Byzantine mosaics and the four gilded horses on the exterior gallery, is extraordinary. The Doge's Palace beside it — the seat of Venetian power for centuries — has a remarkable interior including the Bridge of Sighs.
Expert Tips
- ✓Arrive at St. Mark's at 7am to have it almost to yourself
- ✓Book Doge's Palace tickets in advance
- ✓The Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge's Palace shows the hidden rooms — book months ahead
Getting Lost & the Islands
The greatest thing to do in Venice is to put away the map and wander — you will stumble upon campi, churches, and canals that don't appear in any guidebook. The Rialto Bridge and market are essential. The islands of Murano (glassblowing), Burano (colorful houses and lacework), and Torcello (ancient mosaics) make superb half-day trips by vaporetto.
Expert Tips
- ✓Vaporetto Line 1 along the Grand Canal is the finest bus ride in the world
- ✓Burano is most beautiful in morning light — go early
- ✓The Frari church in San Polo has Titian's Assumption — one of Venice's greatest paintings
Food, Bacaro & Cicchetti
Venice has a unique food culture built around bacari (wine bars) and cicchetti (small snacks on bread). Ombra (small glass of wine) culture means hopping from bar to bar in the Rialto market area in the evening. Risi e bisi (rice and peas), sarde in saor (sweet-and-sour sardines), and risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) are Venetian classics.
Expert Tips
- ✓Avoid restaurants immediately around St. Mark's — they are tourist traps
- ✓Cantina Do Spade near the Rialto is one of the oldest bacari in Venice
- ✓Al Timon in Cannaregio is perfect for cicchetti on the canal
